Daniel Ladurner reports about the first ascent of Cold Heart in Val Lasties, Sella Group, Dolomites, first ascended on 13 February 2022 with mountain guide Thomas Mair.
After having climbed the still slender drip Cassiopeo in Val Lasties at the beginning of the season, I immediately noticed ice on Col Toron, exactly where I’d noticed a drip a few years earlier.
From a distance the line seemed to offer some nice ice and mixed climbing. After waiting for 2 months I managed to persuade Thomas Mair to make the long approach past the mighty west face of Pordoi and attempt this line. The result was two pitches on good rock, protected with pegs, a bolt and a set of cams up to #2. At the belays we used some bolts.
First ascent and redpoint on 13 February 2022
1SL: 25m M6+
2SL: 15m M5+
From Passo Sella, at the first bend after Piz Ciavazes, take path n.656 into Val Lasties. After the famous Cassiopeo icefall, the line is clearly visible towards the north-west up on Col Toron. 1.5 – 2 hours