The second episode of Lines Of Legends directed by Yuri Palma features Andrea and Marco Zanone versus Stone Love, the famous 8b+ first ascended by British rock climber Jerry Moffatt in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1988.
When you think about the Frankenjura, those that immediately spring to mind are Kurt Albert, the inventor of the redpoint climbing movement, and Wolfgang Güllich, the climber who throughout the ’80s and ’90s almost single-handedly put up all the hardest routes in this part of Germany. Almost, because one of the very first 8b+ in the Frankenjura was established by their close friend Jerry Moffatt who in 1988 created one of his masterpieces, Stone Love. Located at the crag Eldorado, this success came about just two years after a series of elbow operations and marked Moffatt’s return to world-class form after devastating tendonitis.
After Manolo’s Terminator at Totoga, Italian climbers Andrea and Marco Zanone travelled to Germany to cut their teeth on this short and intense power test test. Check out the second episode of Lines Of Legends, directed by filmmaker Yuri Palma.
Jerry Moffatt – Significant Ascents and Dates
1963 Born Jeremy Charles Moffatt.
1978 Takes up climbing while at St David’s College, Llandudno.
1980 Leaves school and moves to Tremadog. Repeats many routes including Strawberries (E6 6b, FA: Ron Fawcett, 1980).
1981 FA: Helmut Schmitt (E6 6b), Stoney Middleton, UK.
1981 FA: Little Plum, Pitch 1 (E6 6c), Stoney Middleton, UK.
1981 FA: Psyche n Burn (E6 6b), Tremadog, Wales.
1982 FA: Little Plum, Pitch 2 (E6 6c), Stoney Middleton, UK.
1982 Repeats: Fast, second ascents of three Ron Fawcett routes â€“ The Prow (E7 6c, 1982), Indecent Exposure (E6 6b, 1982) at Raven Tor, and Tequila Mockingbird (E6 6b, 1982), Cheedale. All Peak District, UK.
1982 Flash: Supercrack (5.12c, FA: Steve Wunsch, 1974), Shawangunks, USA.
1982 Repeat: Psycho Roof (5.12d, FA: Jim Collins, 1975), Eldorado Canyon, USA.
1982 Repeat: Genesis (5.12d, FA: Jim Collins, 1979), Eldorado Canyon, USA.
1983 Flash: Equinox (5.12d, FA: Tony Yaniro, 1980), Joshua Tree, USA.
1983 FA: Ulysses (E6 6b), Stanage, UK.
1983 FA: Master’s Wall (E7 6b), Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, Wales.
1983 FA: Masterclass (F8a), Pen Trwyn, Wales.
1983 On-sight: Sautanz (IX, F7b+, FA: Kurt Albert, 1982), Heisse Finger (IX+, F7c, FA: Wolfgang Güllich, 1982) and Chasin’ the Trane (IX+, F7c, FA: John Bachar, 1981), Frankenjura, Germany.
1983 FA: Ekel (IX+, 7c+), Frankenjura, Germany.
1983 FA: The Face (X-, F8a), Frankenjura, Germany.
1984 Flashes Chimpanzodrome (F7c+, FA: Jean Pierre Bouvier, 1981) and a 7b and 7b+ on his 21st birthday and repeats Bidule (F8a+, FA: Marc le Menestrel, 1984), Saussois, France.
1984 On-sight: Pol Pot (F7c+) Verdon Gorge, France.
1984 FA: Papy on Sight (F8a), Verdon Gorge, France.
1984 Repeat: Statement of Youth (F8a, FA: Ben Moon, 1984), Pen Trwyn, Wales.
1984 FA: Verbal Abuse (E7 6c), Raven Tor, UK.
1984 FA: Revelations (F8a+), Raven Tor, UK.
1984 FA: Messiah (E6 6c), Burbage South, UK.
1984 Flash: Super Imjin (5.12b/c, E6 6b, FA: Isao Ikeda, 1984) Ogawayama, Japan.
1984 Repeat: Midnight Lightning (V9, FA: Ron Kauk, 1978), Yosemite, USA.
1984 On-sight: The Phoenix (5.13a, FA: Ray Jardine, 1977), Yosemite, USA.
1984/1985 Injury begins to worsen.
1986 During March and April, undergoes a series of operations on his elbows in the Olympic Hospital, Munich.
1986 Given the all clear and starts training again in November.
1987 Repeat: Ghettoblaster (X+, F8b FA: Wolfgang Güllich, 1986), Frankenjura, Germany.
1987 Repeat: Le Rage de Vivre (F8b+, FA: Antoine le Menestrel, 1986), Buoux, France. Second ascent.
1987 Repeat: Le Minimum (F8b+, FA: Marc le Menestrel, 1986), Buoux, France. Jerry makes the third ascent.
1988 Repeat: La Spectre des Surmutant (F8b+, FA: Jean Baptiste Tribout, 1988), Buoux, France. Jerry becomes the first person to climb the three hardest routes in France.
1988 Repeat: Scarface (5.14a, FA: Scott Franklin 1988), Smith Rock, USA.
1988 Repeat: White Wedding (5.14a, FA: Jean Baptiste Tribout 1988), Smith Rock, USA.
1988 Repeat: To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a, FA: Jean Baptiste Tribout 1986), Smith Rock, USA. Jerry becomes the first person to climb all three F8b+ (5.14a) routes in both France and the USA.
1988 FA: Stone Love (X+/XI-, F8b+), Frankenjura, Germany.
1988 FA: Superman (Font 8a+), Cressbrook, UK.
1989 Competition results: Leeds (1st place) Jerry emphatically wins at Leeds in front of a home crowd.
1990 FA: Liquid Ambar (F8c/+), Pen Trwyn, Wales.
1991 FA: Stick It (Font 8a+, V12) and The Force (Font 8a, V11), Yosemite, USA.
1992 Repeat: Punks in the Gym (32, F8b+, FA: Wolfgang Güllich, 1985), Grampians, Australia.
1992 FA: Zorlac the Destroyer (31, F8b), Grampians, Australia.
1992 On-sight: Serpentine (29, F8a, FA: Malcolm Mathesen 1988), Grampians, Australia.
1993 FA: The Dominator (Font 8b, V13), Yosemite, USA.
1994 FA: Big Kahuna (5.13c/d, F8b), Lions Head, Ontario, Canada.
1995 FA: Evolution (F8c), Raven Tor, UK.
1995 FA: Renegade Master (E8 7a), Froggatt Edge, UK.
1995 FA: Progress (F8c), Kilnsey, UK.
1996 FA: The Joker (Font 8a), Stanage, UK.
1997 FA: Samson (E8 7b), Burbage South, UK.
2002 FA: The Ace (Font 8b), Stanage, UK.
2002 Repeat: Nutsa (Font 8a+, FA: Fred Nicole, 2000), Rocklands, South Africa.
FA = First Ascent