Longhope Direct in Scotland repeated by Robbie Philips, Alex Moore

0
44


The Long Hope Direct, an E10 7a multipitch trad climb at St John’s Head on the Isle of Hoy in Orkney, has been repeated by Robbie Phillips and Alex Moore

Longhope Direct, the E10 7a multipitch trad climb at St John’s Head on the Isle of Hoy in Orkney, Scotland, has been repeated by British climbers Robbie Phillips and Alex Moore. Located close to the famous Old Man of Hoy sea stack and first ascended in 1970 by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill, the route climbs what is famed as the tallest sea cliff in the UK; it was first climbed free by Dave Macleod in 2011, before being repeated by James McHaffie and Ben Bransby in 2013.

Phillips worked the route last year and got extremely close to a free ascent with climbing partner Enna Twyford, but had to retreat not only due to the route’s difficulty and fickle conditions, but also nesting birds. The video of their attempt is included below.

This season Phillips returned with Moore one month earlier to avoid the “locals” and after rehearsing the moves once again, got up at 4:00am, walked to the top of the cliff in the cold Scottish mizzle and then completed the redpoint. Phillips led all the pitches placing the gear, while Moore opted to lead the 65m 8b equivalent with pre-placed gear as time was running out.

Link: www.robbiephillips.co.ukSCARPA






Source link