Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy


On Cima Bacchetta, at the foot of Italy’s Mount Concarena (Val Baione – Valle Camonica) Leonardo Gheza and Angelo Contessi have made the first ascent of Stairway to heaven. The new route is dedicated to Luca Ducoli.

Stairway to Heaven was established ground-up with my friend “Angelino” Contessi, a habitual climbing partner of mine, on Cima Bacchetta in Val Baione. From my point of view, the Dosso Guarda face deserves more attention as it’s easy to get to, ideal for spring and autumn but also in summer on days that are not too hot, since it remains in the shade until around 2 pm and the area is often windy.

The route was established with 10mm bolts, meaning that 8 quickdraws, a single rope and cordlette are all you need to repeat it. All the belay stations are equipped with maillon rapide for the abseils, but you’ll need to clip into the bolts on the way down since it’s overhanging (a single rope and cordlette will facilitate the abseil from belay 3). Several days were invested in cleaning the line to make repeats more enjoyable.

This line is our way of remembering a friend who shared his love for climbing with the future generations, Luca Ducoli. Given his love for music and the guitar, Stairway to Heaven seemed like just the right for the route. I hope you’ll appreciate it from up there! Ciao Luca!

by Leo Gheza

PS The base of the cliff is ideal for a ‘Climb&Fly’ trip 😉

Thanks: Federico Tomasoni for photos and video, La Sportiva, CAMP, Nova Paraglider

TOPO: Stairway to Heaven, Val Baione, Bergamo Alps

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